Steam Through the Dandenong Ranges
The Puffing Billy Railway is a heritage steam train that runs through the Dandenong Ranges, approximately 40 kilometres east of Melbourne’s CBD. The narrow-gauge railway was built in 1900 to serve the mountain communities and has operated as a tourist attraction since the 1960s, making it one of the oldest and best-preserved heritage railways in the world. It’s also one of Melbourne’s most popular family attractions and a genuinely charming experience regardless of your age or interest in trains.
The railway runs from Belgrave (accessible by Melbourne’s suburban train network) through the mountain ash forests and fern gullies of the Dandenong Ranges to Gembrook, a small town at the eastern edge of the ranges. The journey covers 24 kilometres through some of the most beautiful temperate rainforest scenery in Victoria, crossing timber trestle bridges, passing through cuttings in the hillside, and winding around curves with views across the forested valleys below.
The Journey
Belgrave to Lakeside is the most popular section (approximately 50 minutes one way) and the one included in most tours from Melbourne. The train climbs through dense mountain ash and eucalyptus forest, crossing the iconic Monbulk Creek Trestle Bridge — a curved timber bridge 12 metres above the fern-filled gully below — before arriving at Emerald Lake Park. The park has a lake, picnic facilities, and a model railway, making Lakeside a natural turnaround point for families.
Belgrave to Gembrook is the full journey (approximately 2 hours one way) and takes you deeper into the ranges and out the other side into open farmland. This longer journey has a more immersive feel and reaches the historic terminus at Gembrook, but requires more time and isn’t included in all tours.
The tradition of sitting on the window ledges with legs dangling outside is one of Puffing Billy’s distinctive features — open-sided carriages allow passengers to sit on the window frames with their legs hanging over the side of the train. It’s the iconic Puffing Billy photograph and an experience that delights children and adults equally. Enclosed carriages are available for those who prefer a conventional seat.
Combining Puffing Billy With Other Attractions
Most Melbourne tours that include Puffing Billy combine it with other Dandenong Ranges and Yarra Valley attractions to fill a full day.
Puffing Billy and the Yarra Valley is a popular combination — the steam train in the morning, then a drive to the Yarra Valley for winery visits and lunch in the afternoon. The two attractions complement each other well: the heritage charm and forest scenery of the train followed by the wine and food culture of the valley.
Puffing Billy and the Dandenong Ranges pairs the train with the mountain villages and gardens that make the Dandenongs a popular day trip destination. Sassafras and Olinda are tiny villages with tea rooms, antique shops, and the kind of quaint atmosphere that feels like another era. The National Rhododendron Gardens and Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens are among the finest in Victoria. Walks through the mountain ash forests — particularly the 1000 Steps (Kokoda Track Memorial Walk) — provide the active component.
Puffing Billy and Healesville Sanctuary combines the train with Victoria’s premier native wildlife park. The sanctuary specialises in Australian animals — platypus (one of the few places you can reliably see them), wombats, Tasmanian devils, dingoes, and a spectacular birds of prey display.
Practical Tips
Book in advance during school holidays and weekends. Puffing Billy is one of Melbourne’s most popular family attractions, and services sell out during Victorian school holidays, long weekends, and the December–January peak period. Weekday services are generally easier to book.
Dress warmly. The Dandenong Ranges are typically 3–5°C cooler than Melbourne, and the open-sided carriages mean you’re exposed to the mountain air. A jacket is essential even in summer. In winter, dress for genuine cold — the wind chill on a moving train at altitude is significant.
The dangling-legs experience is safe but use common sense. The train moves slowly and the clearances beside the track are generous. Keep arms and legs inside when passing through cuttings and bridges — the crew will announce these sections. Children should be supervised on the window ledges.
Bring a camera with video capability. The trestle bridge crossing, the forest scenery, and the steam locomotive itself are all photogenic. The experience of sitting on the window ledge looking back along the curve of carriages as the train winds through the forest is one of the most photographed moments in Victorian tourism.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Puffing Billy from Melbourne?
Belgrave station (the starting point) is accessible by Melbourne’s Metro train network — approximately one hour from Flinders Street on the Belgrave line. Guided tours from Melbourne include transport, which saves the public transport journey and combines the train with other attractions.
Is Puffing Billy just for families with children?
No. The heritage railway, the forest scenery, and the mountain atmosphere are enjoyable at any age. Adults without children consistently rate it as a Melbourne highlight. The nostalgic charm of steam travel through beautiful forest is universally appealing.
How long does the train ride take?
Belgrave to Lakeside (the most common route) takes approximately 50 minutes each way. Belgrave to Gembrook (the full line) takes approximately 2 hours each way. Most tours use the Belgrave-to-Lakeside section, which provides the best scenery and the iconic trestle bridge crossing without consuming the entire day.